Birds of a Feather
23 Apr10 Floating Islands
Posted in Art, Culture, Landmarks, Travel Tips from Floating Islands, Lake Titicaca by Dan
The “Floating Islands” of Lake Titicaca sound more like a level in Super Mario 3 than a place that actually exists. I can assure you, however, that these islands do exist and are not inhabited by goombas and koopas, but rather pleasant Uro men and women who are quick to welcome you into their homes.
The bus from Copacabana, Bolivia drove us to the Peruvian border and waited patiently as we went through customs before continuing on to drop us in the town of Puno, Peru. Our bus company pushed us into buying the tour from them but we probably could have done it cheaper by finding a cab to the port and buying the tour there.
The tour boat cruised through choppy waters and entered a canal in the lake with tall reeds on either side. As we exited the canal we saw clusters of huts perched upon gigantic floating mounds of straw. We approached the islands as villagers poured out of their homes to wave at us. The boat docked alongside one of the islands and we stepped off onto the surface, taking cautious footsteps as we walked on top of the crunchy, thick piles of reeds, afraid that we might fall through.
We sat down on wood benches and our guide explained to us how these floating structures are made. Meanwhile, a man from the island scurried about, using miniature models to demonstrate the techniques being described.
The reeds used in the construction of the islands are called totora, and grow naturally in the shallows of Lake Titicaca. The root of the totora reed floats under the surface of the water, and grows between one and two meters thick. Blocks of roots are cut into square meter pieces and towed to the desired location. Groups of four blocks are then bundled together and left to sit for one month. During this time, the roots grow together, becoming one large piece. This process is repeated over and over until the island is the desired size. Once this is completed, more reeds are harvested and piled on top of the base, providing a dry floor for the island. The reeds used for the floor eventually rot, and new reeds must be added on a monthly basis.
The Uro people who inhabit these islands have mastered building houses, watch towers and even large two-storey boats out of this material. Centuries ago they moved to the islands to isolate themselves from the aggressive Incas and Collas; today, their traditional lifestyles are mostly preserved by tourism. Calina and I bought a wall hanging from one of the women, who explained the significance of the patterns and said that it took about one month to finish. At the end of the tour we took a short boat ride in one of the traditional totora reed ships to an adjacent island.
We returned to the mainland still unsure if what we had experienced was real or from some strange fantasy world. Bolivia had awed us with its many mysteries. Now, it seemed, Peru would unveil secrets of its own.
Absolutely amazing and fascinating.What is the story behind the items piled high on the fresh reeds. The figure in the tall chair, the baskets and the two other figures in colourful clothes and what looks like a miniature stone stove with small pots on top . Was it part of a demonstration, items for sale?. The houses are practical, did you see inside, but the boat is a masterpiece.
Wow Son,
You are living out Dad’s retirement fantasy to travel the world to exotic places camera in hand to photograph these marvels. I’ll have to quit my day job and see if National Geographic has any openings.
These island villages are spectacular. Just as you described it on the phone. I hope it never comes to the point that Home Depot sets up shop near by. Are these villages self sustaining? I mean do the inhabitants need to go to the main land often for supplies or can they stay away for extended lengths of time?
Oh! I am assuming that these Islands are a “smoke free” environment? Seriously, how the heck do these people deal with fire for cooking or heating if needed? Interesting.
The stuff piled high on the reeds are miniature models of what was on the island. The towers are watch towers built from wood and reeds, with a giant ladder. They are about 20 feet high, and are now used mostly for decoration, but at one point in time they were lookout towers.
The woman who we bought the tapestry from showed us her house. They have simple one room cabins, with one bed where the whole family sleeps. Some of them have small televisions powered by solar panels.
The towns are not entirely self-sustaining. They make trips into Puno to barter for the goods that they need on the island. Also, the kids go to school on the mainland. On the island they fish and hunt birds and so this is primarily what they eat.
The stone slab you mentioned, Angela, answers my Dad’s question about how they avoid fires. A large stone is placed ontop of the island, and this is where the kitchen is built.
The items in that photo were to demonstrate the construction of the islands, but we actually bought one of the little boats along with our tapestry. We’ll be sure to show you them once we’re home.
Cheers!
I think we need to have you guys do a couple of seminars on all your fabulous travel experiences. It is almost too much information to handle in one go. I concur with your Dad that one of my fantasies has been to travel the world but not all in one go. It is too much. Wonderful images and lives to ponder.
Well, that is absolutely fascinating. I’d put it down to another weird dream if it weren’t for the pictures. You know I have a bit of an olfactory fascination and you gave us a sense of the sound of the reeds when you walked on them, but please, what was the smell? You said they rot, so did that make it unpleasant? Or was it like the floors in Japan, or like the little mats Oti brought home from Sumatra? I need the smell.